First I did a dry run, to make sure I remembered how to put it together... Zorba's Jeep
Winch Reassembly
This winch has been around, and has been into at least one time before - maybe several! As can be seen on the previous page, some water had gotten into it, so it needed some cleanup. Easiest way to reassemble is to stack it vertically - everything "weird" points up! The shallow-wide bevel in the sliding ring gear, the bevel in the nylon thrust washer and the large chamfer in the splined drive part all point UP. Easy-peasy.
Sliding ring gear, goes in in this orientation. Note some scratches and corrosion,
this winch has been around and could be called an "old war horse"!
Installed. Outer side of ring gear and inner side of end cap housing will be lubed with motor oil - NOT GREASE!
Sun gear installed.
First planetary assy installed.
Second planetary assy installed.
Stationary ring gear installed - without gasket for this dry run.
Nylon thrust washer installed - note orientation of bevel.
Third planetary assy installed.
Splined drive installed, in reverse orientation from how I found it "Just in case".
End plate installed, again without gasket for this dry run.
Drum bushing installed.
The entire stackup.
Now greasing and assembling for real. Sliding ring gear, sun gear and first planetary.
Do not over-grease as all it will do is introduce drag. Water resistant grease used.
Do not grease the outside of the sliding ring gear - see text.
Secondary planetary and first gasket.
Stationary ring gear and thrust washer.
I tried to get a bit of motor oil into the planetary gears' axles. The axles don't
bear much load, but as grease won't be getting in there, I felt it prudent.
Gear box assembly complete, including second gasket. All 12 retaining bolts installed with "Never-Seez".
Previously prepared drum brake assembly goes back into the drum...
Ears spreading apart as the brake opens up inside.
Drum set onto gearbox.
Motor coupler shown on motor, was dropped into upper end of drum for assembly.
Note second drum bushing in place.
Motor inverted and installed.
There it is! All re-assembled.
Motor data tag was masked off for painting better than the "last guy" did it.
Another new sticker on the gearbox end, with re-installed clutch lever and its
new rubber seal. I used a white paint pen to highlight the winch's serial number.
Other part of the new label.
Note that the stationary ring gear's mounting holes must line up with the same in both end caps. It is possible to mesh it with the splines on the end caps and NOT have the mounting holes line up. If that happens, simply lift and rotate the ring gear one position either way and re-engage the splines. Aside from that, it can be clocked or flipped into any orientation.
This is NOT a high speed wheel bearing assembly, and it shouldn't be packed like one. Doing so will only introduce drag - I did however, smear grease on everything I could for water protection. Its pretty much impossible to get grease into the axles of the planetary assemblies, so I put a bit of oil on them more as corrosion protection than anything else as the axles shouldn't see much load in theory. It is said to NOT use grease on the OUTSIDE of the sliding ring gear and inside of the end cap - it will just add drag and not really accomplish anything as the ONLY time this part turns is when the winch is in "free spool" mode. Use oil instead - a very occasional squirt through the clutch handle will keep it refreshed.
I used Never-Seez on all endcap bolts - as well as the bolts going into the tie rods, always a good idea, especially in cases where there are dis-similar metals involved; which was neglected by "the last guy". Its a bit "fiddly" to get all the planetaries to drop in, especially when everything is slippery with grease, but not bad. Inverting the motor with the second nylon drum bushing was a minor challenge as said bushing tried to fall out. It may be easier to glue the bushing into the motor with a tiny spot of RTV, but I didn't need to do that (this time!).
So now the ONLY work done by the guy that I bought it from that remains, are the new tie rods, everything else I had to undo, redo, remove, or replace. But it seems to have gone together well, turns by hand smoothly and the clutch lever is like new! After I get the electrical back onto it, I'll test it out of course, but I expect it to be fine...
Read on for the next part!
Lost?
Site Map
Copyright and Terms of Use
Home
