National Reversew "Rex" (Model RUSA)
Sometimes called the Reversew "B"This one takes a bit of storytelling. The executive summary is this: I'd been interested in the National Reversew "Rex" for some time. Although I had made the mistake of saying that I wasn't particularly interested in Vibrating Shuttle machines, this one just looked so darn cute. Plus, it was partially made from aluminum, quite advanced for its time (Designed at least as early as 1935).
This machine was sold under quite a few names as National both built it for others, as well as badging it with several storied names from National's own past. As a result, this machine is quite common. I'd seen any number of them go by on eBay, but didn't want to pay shipping on a common machine so I was waiting for one to turn up locally on Craigslist or "where ever".
What I wasn't expecting was one to turn up badged "American Beauty"; although I shouldn't have been surprised as American Beauty is a known National badge. So this machine embodies a convergence of two separate sewing machine interests: Its a Reversew "Rex", and its badged "American Beauty" so I went ahead and grabbed it even though my primary interest in American Beauties are the Birginal-Bigsby machines mostly made in Japan.
From a 1936 advertisement:
REVERSEW. The reversew sewing head has a controlled reverse stitch mechanism enabling the operator to sew in either backward or forward direction. Makes a perfect lock stitch while sew- ing either backward or forward. Chrome finished bright parts, new invisilbe heatless direct to needle sewing lamp and a hinged pressure [SIC] foot for sewing over heavy seams.
With Dependable Motor and Built-in Electric Light.
Supplied with a walnut finished base and a leather-grained fabricold carrying case that holds all parts.
The streamline styling, attractive decorations, controlled reverse stitch mechanism, concealed sewing lamp and other modern features make this model an outstanding value.
No. 1126 - Complete with all attachments; shipping weight 52 lbs..... $89.85
That was a SERIOUS amount of money in 1936! And that was NOT the rare bentwood cased version, which would have been more money.
What I've been able to find out so far:
Reversew "Rex"
First, there is absolutely NO sense whatsoever in recounting the history of the National Sewing Machine Company here - there are several web resources that tell the story well. Suffice it to say they made a bazillion machines over their long history under a huge number of brand names ("badges"), both for themselves and others. I find their machines very interesting. I now also have a National "Streamliner" in addition to this one!
As for the machine itself, I first applied WD-40 into the top of the needlebar as the machine was frozen up. It was an "estate find" from a 90 year old woman in Ohio who passed - may the Goddess Athena bless her for keeping the machine in good shape overall. The case you can see behind is also in pretty good shape (It won't need restoring like the Singer 99K case did.), but had an eye watering musty odor that needed sorting out. I love the wooden bases these Reversews came in!
As for its age, I had the experts (A guy named Randy who works with "Damascus Annie", the leading expert on all things National Sewing Machine Company) advise me as there are no available serial number records like there are for Singers. They told me when I submitted the machine's serial number (103022081 - stamped under the bed):
The serial number under the bed indicates the machine is later post war and the nine digits indicates it is very late machine. Produced in 1953 or 1954 with a slight possibility of late 1952 as a 1953 machine. I put my money on it being a 1954. My other real late machines also have long serial numbers and most of them are 1954 which is the last year of production as far as ["Damascus"] Annie and I can tell.
["Damascus"] Annie's serial number records are from dates recorded on machine warranties which are sale dates. The possibility of the machines actually being made the previous year [ or two ] is great. But we go by the selling date. I have a Eldredge rotary with a warranty date of 1932 but it may have been made in 1931 or even 1930. So getting close is the best we can do since there are no factory records available. Like automobiles, sewing machines introduced new models in the fall as the next model year machines. And on rare occasions - even earlier in the year if they wanted to.
So there you have it, its one of the last ones made. The presence of molded wiring connectors also bears this out. Although the design is older (from 1935 or before), this particular machine is actually the same age, or slightly newer than my '52 Micro Bell!
Update
I broke the old girl loose, the needlebar, shuttle, etc are all operating. Then I got the presser foot/bar loosened up. Not surprisingly, they both were frozen at the bottom where their respective (steel) bars passed through the aluminum casing. No doubt from being stored for decades in the Ohio humidity!
I removed the bars, buffed them up, oiled everything and reassembled. A box of baking soda dumped in the musty case seems to have removed most of the odor - at least it isn't making my eyes water any more!
Presser bar (lying in foreground) removed.
Needlebar and its crank removed.
All re-assembled. Note the paint problem on the face plate.After oiling everything in sight, I was able to power her up for the first time. She goes like crazy - but nowhere near as smooth as a more modern machine.
Veteran NSMCO collectors told me all about these electrical connectors. Seems that early machines had connectors with screw terminals whereas the later production, such as mine, had the connectors molded onto the ends of the cords. Not good 56 years later when the cordage becomes intermittent and no-one seems to make these connectors anymore. The replacements shown here, like the new faceplate pictured above, came from a donor machine. Bad for it, good for this one.
New overall picture.
A replacement faceplate with good paint dresses her up a bit...
Backside overall.
Wheel end with new bobbin winder tire.
Topside view. I don't know if these originally had a spool felt, but I like the look.
Yes, the same people that make the famous blenders...
Cordage plugs neatly into the back of the machine just under the motor.
The replacement "Manhattan" connectors.
The molded originals that came with this machine.
Nevertheless, I'll hold onto the molded connectors as they could be re-wired if someone was desperate enough (I came close!) to cut into them, solder new wires onto the pins, then cast a new back shell onto them.
These connectors are apparently called "Manhattan" connectors - the molded ones were actually made by well known cable and connector company Belden (No, they don't make them any more - I asked!). Apparently, there is some confusion between "Manhattan" connectors and "Chicago" connectors. I was told:
Sewing machine 2-pin plugs are probably all referred to as "Chicago" connectors by most people, but there's definitely two different sizes of them. The Chicago type had rubber boots that slid over the bare electrical connections. The boots looked similar to the boot on an older style automobile coil wire on the distributor. On the "Manhattan" connectors, the conductors are attached (wrapped) around the screws in plates, versus inserted into the end of tubes and secured with a screw threaded into the side of the tube as on the Chicago [I remember working with a 4 pin version of the Chicago connector. -ed].
When I ordered the replacement connectors (and faceplate) the guy selling them offered the (untested) foot controller to me for free - so I took it. It turned out to work fine, unlike the original which either ran full blast or not at all. If the freebie hadn't worked, I would have wired in a modern solid state controller.
Original foot pedal operated in binary mode - here's why...
An identical replacement from the donor machine.
No-one seems to sell bobbins for National "long shuttle" machines, but it turns out that they're pretty much interchangeable as long as the measurements match. Look for Singer 127 bobbins, they work fine.
The light wiring behind the faceplate. Originally hooked up with bent soldered wire hooked up
under the screws. Too 1950s consumer grade for me, I re-terminated with crimp on spade lugs.
My original faceplate had a burnt out light bulb. Much to my surprise, the replacement faceplate had a good bulb!
The "Vibrating" Shuttle in its carrier...
Removes very easily!
A NOS "Boye" shuttle (top) purchased on eBay. Original on bottom.
The Boye shuttle in place. Despite having a slightly different shape, it sews fine!
After removing 3 colors of thread off of the old bobbin (original shuttle pictured)...
I measured same. 1-1/4" seems to be the most popular size for these...
3/8" diameter.
Original (top) and reproduction bobbins. The reproductions were
being sold for the Singer 127 - but work just fine in the Reversew.
I don't know how interchangeable the shuttles are either - but the aftermarket NOS Boye brand shuttle I obtained works just fine. Patched up a T-shirt without any complaint!
Get off my case!
The case needs a small amount of work. The worst part of it was the musty smell, which seems to be under control after the above mentioned baking soda treatment - but I'm not sure how long that will last once its closed up again. It needs a few finishing nails to re-attach the back, the hardware is a bit rusty but will probably be retained, there is a minor problem with the covering cloth (NOT paper like the 99K case was!) on the bottom, and I might spray some black paint in the general direction of the inside to seal in the mustiness.
Black painted interior makes refurb a snap!
Outside looks decent.
A close look between this, and the above picture will show minor loose fabric now glued down.
Bottom had this gouge...
Which I patched with some shelving paper with a similar texture - ready for paint!The following is a lightly edited post from the Yahoo "National Sewing Machines" group that was made in response to my query about these machines:
National made three different styles of 3/4 size long shuttle sewing machines and they all shared some of the same internal parts. Each was distinct in looks. The Reversew was the second of these to be introduced between the mid and late 1930's. As far as I know the "Rex" name was coined by someone and it just stuck as a nickname designation of the long shuttle Reversew machine. [I'm seem to recall seeing a picture of a Reversew "Rex" that actually said "Rex" on it, but am not sure -ed] I am not aware of a correct needle size for the long shuttle Reversew Rex but believe most people use a common 15x1. On my two long shuttle Reversew machines, the feed dogs start to move the fabric before the tip of a 15x1 has exited the fabric. Using a shorter needle, the hook will not catch the upper thread. But they will sew satisfactory with a 15x1. [I verified this on my machine. -ed] The Hamilton Beach made motors were tagged with different names depending on what the contracting distributor or retailer wanted. If there was not a specified or specific name, National or Hamilton Beach was on them.
The Reversew long shuttle bobbins are the same ones used in all the National built 3/4 size long shuttle machines. Many of the older full size National built long shuttle machines use the same bobbins too.
Long shuttle machines are fun and easy to use. The principle is the same as on an oscillating rotary machine except that the hook ( which is the shuttle that holds your long bobbin ) moves in basically a straight line with a slight arc. The major difference is that the needle bar on a long shuttle machine bottoms and the raises a tiny bit and bottoms again. This second downward movement pulls more thread down so that on the following upward stroke there is actually a loop of thread for the hook to catch as it passes toward the front of the machine. Once the point of the hook has caught the thread, the thread then passes completely around/over the round side of the shuttle and grabs the bobbin thread at it's open end. You can watch this happen by threading the machine and rolling the hand wheel slowly - with the front slide plate removed.
The flat side of the shuttle rides along a machined flat surface under the bed which has an oil port. Oil weeps out of the oil port from an oiled wick and keeps the flat side of the shuttle lubricated so it can move without friction. It is important to clean there regularly, both the shuttle and flat surface under the bed as they will get a black coating.
The long shuttle Reversew is a very smooth running machine compared to other long shuttle machines. It is rated to sew up to 1100 stitches per minute but if it is a portable model and sitting on a table it may be walking around at that speed. It is the only National made long shuttle to incorporate the reverse feature and will sew any length stitch in reverse. Not many long shuttle machines had reverse (There is a Free Westinghouse that does).
The long shuttle Reversew takes a special light bulb and I have not been able to find a suitable replacement. The glass globe must be very narrow to fit in the space provided in the face plate.
The term "Vibrating Shuttle" fell out of favor by the 1930's. After all, who wanted to buy a sewing machine with the word "Vibrating" associated to it. "Long Shuttle" was much more suitable and the manufacturers preferred it and used it in their literature [I'm sure this is true - however "Vibrating Shuttle" is used by many collectors to this day. In addition, the same "long" or "boat shaped" shuttle style was used in "Transverse Shuttle", "Reciprocating Shuttle", as well as "Vibrating Shuttle" machines. -ed].
The long shuttle Reversew machine is probably the smoothest and lowest vibration long shuttle machine ever built. National even redesigned several of them to look more modern after WW2 and marketed them as low cost machines in a bid to stay competitive in the marketplace with the massive invasion of the Japanese Singer 15 clones. Unfortunately, the Japanese 15 clones undercut the price of them by as much as 60% and that spelled the end of National as well as a larger percent of other USA sewing machine manufacturers and put thousands of people out of work. The Coronado badged Reversew cost $87.95 in 1950. [I've also heard of a Coronado going for $99.95 in 1953 -ed] Other National made long shuttle machines cost as little as $69.95 new after WW2. The Japanese 15 clones were available for as low as $39.95. USA made rotary machines were rarely available for $90 ( after WW2) and most cost $100+ in the early 1950's.
Quite the font of knowledge about these machines, well worth passing it on here.
If you have one, you can buy the manual
here.
Bobbin Winder Tire...
Singer is the 600 lb. gorilla of the Sewing Machine world, collectible or otherwise. Finding parts for a non-Singer, particularly an old non-Singer can be a bit challenging as said parts are lost in "the noise".
I quickly found out that the "standard" bobbin winder tire for a Singer (such as my beloved 99K) was not the correct size for a National. The folks on the NSMCO email list didn't know either - apparently most of them have been stretching a Singer tire to fit.
Ok, so call me "anal", but that's the last resort as far as I'm concerned. I first measured the existing tire, which although cracked, was in far better shape than the one that was originally on my 99K. The results can be seen in the table below. According to the specification, a #314 Buna O-ring was quite close, just slightly narrower which may or may not create traction problems between the tire and the bobbin winder "rim" that the tire is mounted to. The Singer tire is an entire .10" too small, I'm quite sure that it works, but would have a sub-optimal lifespan due to the excessive strain put on the rubber.
I finally found someone who would measure their tires, and found that a pretty standard #2460 - apparently used on many Brothers and other Japanese machines - seems to be the ticket. It may or may not be the exact size the original tire was when it was new, it seems that close. Certainly it fits good, looks correct, and works well:
Brand new #2460 bobbin winder tire.
Parameter Original #314 Buna O-ring #2460 Tire #15287-A Singer Tire Inner Diameter 0.72" 0.72" 0.68" 0.62" Cross Section 0.24" 0.21" 0.27" 0.25" Another factoid about the bobbin winder tire - take a look down this page below at the pictures from a copy of the manual. The bobbin winder tire depicted there looks nothing like what is (and was) on my machine. Apparently these did not originally use "standard" shaped tires at all! So my use of the word "original" can only be construed to mean what was on the machine when I received it - not necessarily the kind that was "originally" supplied.
Lite Bulb
The machine came with, as noted above, a burned out lite bulb. The replacement face plate I obtained, had an identical bulb that was actually good. Apparently, these bulbs are not the correct type, but do fit albeit barely. As I couldn't determine what kind of bulb these were, I went on a quest and found that a common #643 15 watt bulb fits. These are available from many sewing machine parts suppliers.
The new #643 bulb squeezed into place...
Note the slightly different shape of the old bulb.
(TOP) Christmas lamp sized/shaped 15 watt bulb as used on many Japanese machines.
(MIDDLE) Unknown "old" Bulb.
(BOTTOM) Bulb #643.It is entirely possible that the "old" bulb is also a #643 - when I ordered the #643, I ordered it from a drawing that showed a bulb with parallel straight sides, not "bulbous tapering" like I received, nor "straight tapering" as with the "old bulb". However, this is enough to show that its possible to get #643 bulbs in different shapes - which leads one to think the "old bulb" could very well be a #643 also. Regardless, either of them can substitute for the "Christmas lamp" style at the top - same wattage (15), same base, smaller envelope.
The "Christmas lamp" is the kind I've always considered a "standard sewing machine lamp" as it is used in my White 690 - and I remember that shape very well being used in my Mother's Birginal-Bigsby American Beauty. My refrigerator uses this same style to illuminate the water/ice dispenser area. Note that real Christmas lamps (or nite lite lamps) are only half the wattage (7½ vs. 15) of the identical looking type used in sewing machines.
What this machine really wants, I think, is a 15 watt bulb that is the diameter of the small end of the envelope of either the "new" or the "old" bulbs - but that diameter all the way end to end. From what I've read on the NSMCO list, that bulb is no longer made.
Needle and sewing
After all this work, I was ready to try a test seam. First I wound a bobbin:
Winding bobbin. Cool little cam follower mechanism. If the
winder tire slips, tighten the winder pivot screw a bit.
Threaded up.
Close-up of thread path.
Make sure the thread passes through this little groove,
otherwise it will catch in the faceplate joint to the left.
These needle sizes are no-longer made. The user is cautioned to
"USE ONLY GENUINE NEEDLES". I guess this means I can't use toothpicks?
Test seam on scrap fabric...
Fail - bottom seam. Pass - top seam. See text.As noted above, the original needles are no longer made - but a standard 15 x 1 needle works just fine - IF you install it correctly. At first, the machine wouldn't lock stitches consistently, only locking about 1 in every 5. The above referenced "Randy" came to the rescue again. The manual tells the user to insert the needle all the way up to the stop - which was correct for the originals. However, the 15 x 1 is slightly shorter, so it must be mounted a bit lower. I lowered mine about 1/16", approximately the diameter of the needle shank - and the machine now locks stitches reliably. I'm also give to understand that the obsolete, but sometimes still available 20 x 1 needle - although not original specification - will also work without any repositioning.
Sewing fringe on a "Turkish" Belly Dance skirt.My White 690 is a bit persnickety at times. It has an annoying tendency to suck delicate projects through the elongated zig-zag needle hole in the needle plate. I do not have a straight stitch needle plate for it, and I'm not sure that one was ever made available.
So here I am, trying to sew fringe onto an "old skool" Turkish skirt I was making, and the above problem kept happening. So, I figured I'd sew it on my Singer 99K as it has a much smaller needle hole being that its a straight stitch only machine. However, the Singer was in my car because I've been hauling it back and forth to "Stitch & Bitch" costuming sessions. I was going to go out and lug it in, but the Reversew was looking at me accusingly from its case: "put me in, coach!".
So, "What the hey." I threaded up one of the reproduction bobbins I'd acquired from a vendor on eBay, plopped the skirt and fringe up under its presser foot, and sewed away! The ancient mechanism came to life "for real" for the first time in what had probably been decades, and did its designers and builders proud!
There is no way this machine is as smooth as my rotary shuttle White, nor is it as smooth as the old Singer, but this is an excellent demonstration of how "good enough" really is "good enough". I really do love getting old mechanicals working again - this machine has been quite the fun project!
I have since used this old machine for several other sewing tasks - sewing the fringe on the top that matches the above mentioned skirt, sewing up elastics, sewing up some loose seams on an Old Assuit (as opposed to New Assuit) dress that is probably older than the machine, etc. It purrs along merrily!
Storing your Reversew
Some people recommend storing any friction drive sewing machine that has a
spring loaded motor with a small wedge of wood behind the motor to give a small
gap between the drive wheel and the hand wheel so a flat spot won't develop.What's it called and when was it made again?
The above quoted text from the NSMCO list leaves the introduction date of this model somewhat vague. I got it into my head at one point that it was first introduced in 1939 - whether I read that year somewhere or I hallucinated it, I don't know. However, take a look at the cover of this very old Reversew manual that recently came my way:
Note the "5/36" print date enlarged in the inset.And check out this diagram from the inside of the same manual:
There's something different about the pictured machine...
A sharp eyed reader will notice three things:1) Its not called a "Reversew 'Rex'" - which as we know was a nickname anyway. It was called a "Reversew 'B'". When I first acquired my "American Beauty" badged version, I had read "somewhere" a reference calling it just that: "Reversew 'B'". However, very few references on the 'Net call it that, either calling it the common nickname "Reversew 'Rex'", or by its model number "RUSA". This proves that it was, at least originally, called the "Reversew 'B'".
2) Look at the location of the spool pin vs. all the pictures of these machines on this page and elsewhere! I don't know if this centrally located spool pin was early production, or a change after this manual was created but before the design was finalized. Or maybe someone made mistake or created the manual from a prototype or prototype drawing. I have yet to see an actual machine built this way. Who knows?
3)It is a black machine with smooth paint, as evidenced by the painted designs on the base and head - and it has the "Alternate" face plate that has thus far only appeared on black machines. I'd speculate that this faceplate style was perhaps on older machines, newer ones would have had the Art Deco style. This theory is supported also by the fact that brown crinkle machines became popular in the late 40s and 50s - probably not so much in the 1930s.
My (other) manual, a reproduction, was copied from an original bearing a print date of 2/48. It shows the spool pin in the accustomed rightmost position, and calls it simply "The Reversew Electric Sewing Machine" - no reference to "Model 'B'" whatsoever. Interestingly, it also shows an apparent black machine with the "Alternate" face plate style and painted design on the base - but no design painted on the head.
Another interesting factoid: An insert in the 1936 manual has the following text:
Again, this was in the 1936 copy of the manual. My 1948 copy makes no mention of this safety feature - NOR is it present on my 1954 example which runs happily regardless of whether the light is turned on or off. Interesting... IMPORTANT
For your safety an important new feature has been incorporated in this
machine. The light switch provides electric current for the motor as well
as the light.In order to operate the machine this switch must be on.
If you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattended,
just turn off the light switch and the machine can not be started accidently
by pressing on the speed control. This feature also applies when the
machine is in storage.The speed control is used to vary the machine speed from zero to high.
Sweet mysteries! But wait! It gets better! Check this French language manual out, for a black Davis (pictured lower down) originally sold in Montreal:
Printed in 1935!
No "Reversew B" or weird spool pins here.
And look at this! Official reference to the name "Rex",
not found in either of my English language manuals!A contributer, "Katherine" came forward with this manual - and the black Davis depicted below. Her French language manual has no mention of "Reversew B", has no center spool pin, no painted design depicted on the head itself - yet was printed almost an entire year earlier than my 1936 English language manual depicted above. This French manual is more in line with what is known about this machine in the 21st century - having a correct picture and the most popular name. "Whisky Tango Foxtrot"! Who knows?
I'll leave the reader with a couple of "inspirational" photos:
Interestingly enough, my above referenced 1936 manual has an insert - printed on a small, unbound piece of paper - with a diagram of how to pack the machine in the "more typical" non-bentwood case as depicted for my "American Beauty" Reversew. This shows that although likely that bentwood cases were only found on pre-war machines, but also that the (more prevalent) suitcase style case was also supplied at the same time.
Love the Art Deco front plate!
Can't resist the nite shot. I like things that glow in the dark...
A Belly Dance "Stitch and Bitch".
My Pfaff 776 can be seen in the foreground.
Directly behind it can be seen the "American Beauty" Reversew.
The lovely lady to the right is the proud owner of my late Mother's Montgomery Ward machine.
Yes, my White 690 was hard at work this day also - in a different room.
Oh, the machine to the far left? A modern, plastic Singer belonging to another dance sister.
Does quite well, although I don't think it "holds a candle" to my '57 Singer 99k which was not
in use here, but I take it to "away dates" frequently.
An interesting tangent:
"Home Motor" by Hamilton Beach.
Photos courtesy of eBay seller "Imperialpicker00".This multi-purpose motor was sold over several decades starting, apparently, in the 19-teens. It was advertised as being able to power sewing machines, mixers, polishers, and fans. It included a foot pedal to control it, later versions of the foot pedal were the same as pictured above for the Reversew sewing machines. Obviously, owing a motor in the home was at one time considered as cutting edge as owning a computer!
I've also seen a seemingly identical motor marketed with Singer's name on it - apparently Singer bought these
from Hamilton Beach and put their name on it. It was advertised to electrify your Singer sewing machine.
Some of the other badges the Reversew "Rex" wore:
Thanx go out to the many gracious people who have granted permission to show their pictures here. Largely eBay sellers
that I found, but also machines found elsewhere and a few whose owners found me and sent pictures. Thank You!
This old warhorse shows that some machines were actually badged "National".
Photo courtesy of eBay seller "Merylwitch".
Another crinkle brown "National". This is the ONLY example I've seen thus far
without the beautiful polished wood base; instead having the usual-for-other-brands
cloth/paper covered base that latches onto a cover. After market? Replacement? The
"National" painted badging looks unusual on this one also. Repainted? Original?
Very curious in any event! Photo courtesy of eBay seller "tdaddunn".
And a National in black with unknown faceplate.
Photo courtesy of eBay seller "tonianajjar".
A Davis in crinkle brown. Photo courtesy of eBay seller "DukeG".
A Davis in Black with "alternate" face plate. Davis Reversew
machines were also produced in black with Art Deco face plates.
In a pretty rare for this model sewing table!
The knee pedal matches. Not all do, some were brown!
A bit out of focus, but shows the same kind of blocked off terminal block as
found on my "Streamliner". I bet its wired the same way too.
And here is the genesis of the nickname "Rex" - it was the MOTOR model!
All these black Davis pictures are courtesy of "Katherine", the machine's owner.
Someone scrawled "1940" on the underside of the cabinet - but her manual (above)
is dated from 1935!
Montgomery Wards sold a LOT of them.
Photo courtesy of eBay seller
A "Brunswick", another Montgomery Wards iteration also in a rare cabinet.
Some of the black painted Reversews had a different faceplate design.
These two photos courtesy of eBay seller
CHARIS X
A black machine with the Art Deco style front plate.
Photo courtesy of eBay seller "Centermid".
PARAMOUNT X. Unknown faceplate. It seems there were a series of (shiny) black machines with
a capitalized name followed by a capital "X". All the ones I've been able to make a faceplate
determination on were of the Art Deco style. Why the all caps and the "X" is beyond me!
Photo courtesy of eBay seller "michelle_lucas90". Note what looks like an OEM bobbin winder tire!
Gamble's "Coronado" brand. $87.95 in 1950. I thought for the longest time that my
eventual acquisition of this model would be one of these due to their prolificness.
(Photo used with permission from the NSMCO list)
This is the backside of a Coronado that reputedly sold for $99.95 in 1953. Note
the color of the machine vs. the color of the foot pedal. I had noticed that
Coronado machines seemed to be very dark (see picture above this one too) - but you
never know about white balance issues. This picture proves the existence of a 3rd
color - a black or dark grey crinkle! Compare to the Eldredge further below.
Photo courtesy eBay seller "BB6810"
And here we have a Coronado (Alternate faceplate) that is the usual smooth black! Photo courtesy eBay seller "hoao600"
It has an very interesting friction drive wheel. I've seen pix of other National-built models
with friction drive equipped with similar drive wheels, but this is the first one I've seen on
a "Rex". Also notice the motor that, while black, is crinkle. An interesting combination!
"International" with confirmed Art Deco faceplate. Note brown foot pedal. Not all
machines had brown foot pedals, see below. Courtesy of eBay seller "bigdeals25"
Crinkle Brown "International". Courtesy of eBay seller "danny402011".
"American" with black foot pedal. Photo Courtesy Ron Hyden.
Interesting graphic at base of pillar - this appeared on a number of black machines.
GraybaR in black.
With "other" style faceplate. These two photos courtesy of
Another black GraybaR, this one with an Art Deco faceplate.
This photo courtesy of Rick Engel.
A GraybaR in Crinkle Brown. This photo courtesy of
An Eldredge in what looks like Crinkle Black/Grey...
Photo courtesy of
...and a shiny black Eldredge with "alternate" faceplate.
I've also seen a (shiny) black Eldredge with an Art Deco faceplate.
Photo courtesy eBay seller "dave94066"
"Janny's Old Homestead". Rather unusual name seems to be an appliqué
rather than the more usual painted badging.
Photo courtesy of eBay seller "bullet61".
This SeamstresS Reversew is in what is apparently a very
rare turquoise paint. My guess is the color was an attempt
to compete with the Japanese machines that were hitting the
market in the 1950s. Photo courtesy of the (non-eBay) seller.
A SeamstresS Reversew in crinkle brown. This photo made possible
through the gracious permission of
Another SeamstresS in black (unknown faceplate). Photo courtesy of Peter Scott, the seller.
Interestingly, all three of these "SeamstresS" machines were found in Canada. Perhaps they
were mostly or exclusively a badge sold there.
A "SEAMSTRESS X" in the usual black with Art Deco faceplate. Whether or not "SEAMSTRESS X" had
any connection with the apparent Canadian brand "SeamstresS" (other than being identical machines made
by the same maker!) is unknown. This example surfaced in California. Photo courtesy of eBay seller "ktkt55".
"Enterprise" with, much like my "American Beauty", a somewhat worn/faded name (shown larger in inset).
Picture courtesy eBay seller "hartmn2qds". Beam me up Scotty!
A black GraybaR in an apparently pretty rare bentwood case that was supplied prior to WW II.
I cannot be sure which faceplate is on this one (I'd guess the "alternate").
Unlike some black machines, this one has a black pedal.
Close-up of the bentwood case. Photos courtesy of eBay seller "zip*dealz"
Other badges I've seen or heard of for the Reversew "Rex"...
... but was either unable to obtain photos of sufficient quality, or photo permissions:
"Blue Grass" in black with Art Deco faceplate, "Eldredge" in black with Art Deco faceplate, "Bingham" in black with unknown faceplate, "Davis" in black with Art Deco faceplate, "VAUCELLE X" & "SPRINGFIELD X" in black with unknown faceplates (probably Deco), a "SEWRIGHT X" in black with Art Deco faceplate, a "Muller X" or "Mueller X" (unknown color, unknown face plate, most likely "MUELLER X" in black with Deco), a "MAJESTIC X" (unknown color, unknown face plate, most likely black with Deco), and lastly a "Cromwell" in crinkle brown.
ANY version with a center mounted spool pin!
Picture "donations" with permissions of these, or any other variations of this model would be VERY much appreciated! Contact me.
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