Zorba's Jeep
Springs
Had to use my hydraulic jack trick - breaker bar wouldn't work!
Disconnected swaybar link, front lower control arm, and shock...
...which enabled the axle to drop down far enough to remove old spring.
Old vs. new. New H&R springs are about 50 mils (0.050") larger in diameter.
Primed and painted the spring perches on both sides.
Installed and everything buttoned up. Nobody knows why the H&R lettering is upside down...
Repeat on other side - note wood blocks elevating opposite side.
New spring set in place.
Rear spring waiting...
Rear spring comparison from top. Stock springs taper, H&Rs do not.
Unlike the front where the H&Rs are a "BCH" shorter, they're noticeably taller in the rear.
Removed passenger side.
Paint applied as with the front.
New spring in place.
Driver's side OEM spring.
Removed and paint applied.
New spring in place, all back together.Results:
The traditional way to show clearance change: Before (left) and after (front).
Coke can comparison for the rear, Before (left) and after (front).
Front wheel: Went from 31¼" before (Right), to 32⅜" after (Left).
Rear wheel: Went from 32½" before (Right), to 33½" after (Left).
Front bumper: 17⅜" before (Left), to a whopping 18⅞" after (Right).
Least change was at the rear bumper, where it went from 15¼" before (Left) to 15⅝" after (Right).
Photo op on shakedown cruise.This job wasn't bad at all. Disconnect the lower control arm (LCA), shock, and swaybar linkage on the front, elevate opposite wheel on blocks as shown, and lower the axle down gently and they swap right out. The rear was even easier as it wasn't necessary to disconnect the LCA. This resulted in an approximate lift of 1 inch at the wheel wells, an inch and a half at the front bumper, and ⅜" at the rear. This will give me the needed room to install 31" tires - which is very good as the stockers that have been on the Jeep since I bought it have about had it.
Read on for the next part!
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