I don't know how long the passenger side hinge looked like it was going to crack apart at any moment, but when I noticed it, I ordered a new hinge set. According to the Jeep forum, the Kentrol hinges are the best, and as they all are about $70 regardless of brand, I went with the recommended ones. The new hinges are stainless steel, rather than the cast aluminum or ZAMAC that the originals were. Zorba's Jeep
Liftgate Hinges, Misc, PA Amp.
Noticed this recently...
Other side starting to crack as well.
New Stainless Steel Kentrol hinge kit.
Passenger side installed - note shiny washer.
Driver's side on.
Outside view, Driver's side.
Passenger side.
From a distance.Putting them on was a no brainer, although the passenger side glass stud also holds one end of the wiper motor bracket up. Said bracket has a large, soft rubber grommet. I added a fender washer next to said grommet because the new nut-washer didn't allow for the nut portion to swivel - unlike the original which did. Rather than grind down on the grommet, I added the washer.
Interestingly, the bolts that hold the hinges onto the fiberglass hardtop are M6, but the original OEM stud size through the glass was ¼", while the replacements are also M6. Only on a Jeep!
Time to change the oil - and upgrade to a "full sized" oil filter.
End on comparison between the spec filter (left) and the Wix 51515
Pennzoil. Something I thought I'd never use again. See text.
Full sized Wix 51515 oil filter in place.
Reprised picture of spec sized filter in place.This is the first time I've personally changed the oil as it had just been done when I purchased the Jeep last year - and was done again when I had the oil pan replaced. This Jeep leaks no oil whatsoever (now), not even from the slightly problematic rear main seal. Everybody on the forum recommends using a "High Mileage" oil to keep it that way, plus most there also recommend a conventional oil vs a synthetic - something I pretty much agree with as well. However, finding an oil that is both conventional AND "High Mileage" isn't as easy as it used to be. Pennzoil makes such, and is readily available - however, I swore off Pennzoil decades ago as I've seen enough gunked up engines caused by same - we used to call them "Pennzoil motors". Apparently, from both my research and what a forum guru says, the Pennzoil of today isn't the same as the Pennzoil of 30 years ago - so even though I had to "hold my nose", I bought a 5 quart bottle. Plus one quart of a similar Quaker State oil to make up the 6 quarts required as the Pennzoil wasn't available at the store in 1 quart bottles. The Quaker State wasn't available in 4 or 5 quart bottles either - thus the mix.
I've always been one to run the largest oil filter possible when an alternate was available. I used to do it on a Ford Tempo back in the day, and it turns out that the Wix 51515 1 quart filter works on these Jeep engines and is no harder to install than the specification ½ quart filter is - so on it went. What with the large 6 quart oil capacity on a traditional American gasoline engine, the extra half quart isn't really buying me anything, but it makes me feel good for negligible cost.
Fire extinguisher.
In Bartact holder.
Bottom strap prevents gravity from dropping the extinguisher. See text.
Clip mount for 5lb extinguisher on home built bracket.
Angle didn't lower it enough, so I had to add a piece of flat stock.
Bolts across the lower front driver's seat mount. This test mount, before paint, shows that it now fits below the slide mechanism.
And the fold forward function works as well!
After painting, the assembly was mounted permanently. Note shorter mounting bolts...
Extinguisher in place.As for the rear fire extinguisher, the Bartact holder is very nice, and well made. However it took some futzing to get it to work. Out of the box, its really too large to hold a 2.5lb extinguisher, yet too small to fit the Jeep's rather thick padded roll bars. At the same time, it didn't want to hold a 5 lb extinguisher either - so I reversed the whole affair and now it just barely - but apparently adequately - fits the roll bar, and holds a 2.5 lb extinguisher. As seen in the above picture, the "Bartact" labeling is supposed to go around the extinguisher, not the roll bar, but that's how it worked out.
Not being happy with a small, 2.5lb extinguisher, I also mounted this 5lb as shown. I had hoped that the angle I had on hand would have worked by itself, but the extinguisher was a BCH too high, so I added the flat stock to extend it lower. After painting it, it looks good enough. This was an idea from "Jerry" on the TJ forum, several other guys have done it as well. It works better than it looks!
Why, O why the maker of the previously installed CB radio only gives 7 watts power for a (also previously installed) PA horn is beyond me. This little 50 watt amplifier should help liven things up a bit, and is a perfect match for the 50 watt rated horn! A bit of a logistical pain in the neck, as I needed to adapt the CB's PA speaker out to line levels for the new amp's input. Numerous ways to accomplish this - I found a stereo balun adapter that I cut in half.
50 watt monaural amp for the PA horn...
Demounted the ARR radio bar, stuff a piece of metal into it to protect the internal wiring, and drilled...
... to mount the amp
Guts back in.
Cover back on!
Back up in place.
Overall view, new amp to the far left.
The correct way to convert the CB's speaker level output to the amp's line level input.
Small balun assembly housed inside a PVC pipe fitting.
Not glued, "just in case".
Lives in the dash behind the CB radio - but I painted it anyway!
Yet another plug in adapter. This one taps power for the PA Amp from the Ham radio feed.
Wiring on the backside is starting to look ugly - like wiring usually does. Not visible from the front seats!
Another overall view, the new PA amp is LOUD!
Video demonstrating amp.
Recent glamour shot. 2 foot trail CB antenna in place.Read on for the next part!
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