Zorba's Jeep
Winch Control Box refurb.
Left to right: Flat washers from the underside, drilled out rivets, remains of the
original lanyard attachment, new dust cap on old connector with control box.
New dust cap shown on connector prior to re-installation.
Had to remove the control connector anyway, so painted the control box and red "W".
Connector re-installed with new protective cap. See text.
Armature and field coil cables re-connected with new boots.
Ground connection on bottom of motor.
Winch back together at last - ready to test.
New aluminum fairlead purchased from "Amazon Warehouse", old cast iron Warn repainted and
sold to a new home in Pennsylvania. I even shipped it in the same box the new one came in!
Took a bit, but this roller style fairlead is off to a new home in San Jose, Ca.
I'm pretty sure this was Warn branded as well.The water/dust cap on the control connector was long gone - and like everything else, cost beaucoup bucks - finally found the best price for it was at my local AutoZone store of all places! The design of same is a bit wonky - I had to remove the connector from the top of the control box housing, which meant all the wires had to be disconnected, etc, etc. Nothing bad, just time consuming. The connector is mounted in the middle of the huge "W" for Warn - kind of silly, but whatever. The "W" had the remains of the original red sticker on it that flaked off with very little encouragement needed. I ended up painting the "W" as the correct size-matched sticker costs $25 - complete highway robbery as far as I'm concerned - a generic Warn "W" sticker of about the same size costs $3! I probably wouldn't have bothered with the red, but I had some DupliColor paint left over from the interior highlighting I'd done, so "why not?". I also sprayed some SEM black that I had used on the fender flares.
Like I said, the connector mounting is a bit wonky - in order to replace the dust cap, not only did the connector have to be removed, but said connector was riveted in place, so I had to bolt it back. I ended up using a pair of stainless #12-24 (!!) bolts and nyloks to re-secure the connector, but was able to re-use the pair of internal flat washers. I think Warn could have come up with a better plan to secure the dust cap lanyard other than a flex strap to an under-connector gasket thing, but whatever. Its in, it works...
Remember on the previous page where I said I didn't expect to have any problems when I went to test the winch?
The Gods smote me for my hubris...
If I'd been paying attention, I would have noticed that there was no bonding strap, wire, bolt, or screw to ground the frame of the brush holder assy to the body of the motor. So painting this end is NOT a good idea... This method of assy reminds me of guys who don't run a separate ground wire to their trailers, but instead rely on the hitch ball to provide ground - in other words, not the best practice, but now I know and its fixed! Solenoids all work too - but I'm going to have to attempt to clean/tighten the control connector on top.
Long story short: Don't paint this mating surface...
...because that's how 2 of the brushes find their ground!
Back together, low level testing...
... and the other direction.Once re-assembled, THEN I put a touch-up coat of paint on the junction between the endcap and the motor body to prevent rust, and will run a small bit of RTV on it as well.
Belly Dance rated!
Just in case I manage to shimmy myself into trouble. This isn't nearly as critical as
it would be in a vehicle with power windows (which is yet another reason I don't like
power windows), yet it still could be of use in the right - or wrong - situation!
"Background" micro-project. A rear fog lite. Checking placement here.Read on for the next part!
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